Raw feeding has become increasingly popular as more pet owners look for “natural,” “ancestral,” or “species-appropriate” diets. When done right, fresh raw food can be another suitable feeding option. But when done wrong, it can lead to nutrient deficiencies, long-term health issues, and even skeletal deformities in growing puppies.
As a canine nutritionist, I regularly consult with owners who are unknowingly making serious errors when formulating homemade raw diets or in fact feeding what they believe is “complete and balanced”. In this blog, I’m going to walk you through the **5 most common mistakes** I see — and how to correct them with a more balanced, evidence-based approach.

1. Thinking Carbohydrates Aren’t Beneficial for Dogs

One of the most widespread myths in the raw feeding community is that carbohydrates are “filler,” “unnatural,” or even harmful to dogs. This misconception stems from comparing dogs to wolves, but the science paints a different picture.

Dogs Aren’t Wolves

Modern dogs (Canis lupus familiaris) have evolved significantly from their wild ancestors. A landmark study published in Nature (Axelsson et al., 2013) found that domestic dogs have multiple copies of the AMY2B gene — allowing them to digest starch far more efficiently than wolves.

Carbohydrates Can Be Beneficial

Energy Source: Carbs like sweet potato, oats, or rice offer glucose for energy, sparing protein for its primary role: building tissues.
Fibre Support: Many carb-rich ingredients provide soluble and insoluble fibre, vital for gut health, digestion, and stool quality.
Lowering Fat: Including complex carbs in a diet can reduce the overall fat load — especially helpful for dogs with pancreatitis or needing calorie control.

What Goes Wrong Without Them

A carb-free diet often pushes up fat to unhealthy levels. It may also lack fermentable fibres that support the microbiome, increasing the risk of gut dysbiosis.

Fix It:
Incorporate dog-safe complex carbohydrates like:

Cooked sweet potato
Butternut squash
Buckwheat
Oats
Pumpkin

Aim for 10–25% of the total recipe weight depending on your dog’s needs, activity levels, and any medical concerns.

2. Thinking 80:10:10 with Veg Is a Balanced Diet

The so-called 80:10:10 model (80% muscle meat, 10% bone, 10% organs) is widely promoted in raw feeding circles. Many owners believe that simply following this ratio, plus a few vegetables or berries, equals a balanced diet. Many Commercial 80:10:10 mixes are labeled “complete” so owners can be excused for thinking that what they are feeding is sufficient for their dog.

Unfortunately, this is far from accurate.

Lacking Micronutrient Balance

80:10:10 ratios:

Provide no calcium-phosphorus balance control, often too much calcium
Lack essential trace minerals like zinc, manganese, iodine, certain B vitamins,
Are often deficient in vitamin D, E, and copper
Not EPA or DHA source or Essential fatty acids such as Linoleic acid
Don’t meet FEDIAF or NRC guidelines

Even adding vegetables doesn’t correct these imbalances.

Scientific Example

A 2023 study by Moreira et al. (Veterinary Sciences) found that 95% of raw and homemade diets analyzed were deficient in at least one essential nutrient, with calcium, vitamin D, zinc, and iodine being the most common shortfalls.

Fix It:
Formulate using nutritional standards such as FEDIAF or NRC guidelines, and include:

Seaweed (kelp) for iodine
Hemp, flax or fish oil for omega-3s and essential omega 6s
Wheat germ oil for Vitamin E (rarely present in sufficient amounts)
Looking at supplements for gaps in nutrition where needed
Ground eggshell or bone meal if you're not feeding whole bones or a mix

Use nutritional software or work with a canine nutritionist to ensure your recipe is complete and balanced — especially if feeding long-term.

3. Believing Rotating Proteins Weekly = Balance

It’s a common belief that rotating proteins — beef on Monday, chicken on Tuesday, lamb on Wednesday — creates balance “over time.” But nutritional balance doesn’t work like that, particularly not for dogs.

Why It Doesn’t Work

Nutrient needs are daily, not weekly or monthly.
Imbalances can accumulate fast — especially in nutrients like calcium, phosphorus, zinc, and vitamin D.
If you're rotating proteins that all lack certain nutrients (e.g., all low in vitamin D), you're simply rotating deficiencies.

Danger for Puppies

Growing puppies have razor-thin safety margins for nutrients. Even short periods of deficiency can lead to stunted growth, limb deformities, or skeletal disease.

Fix It:
If rotating proteins, make sure:

Each version of the meal is independently balanced to FEDIAF or NRC.
You’re not just swapping meats, but adjusting bone, organ, fat, and supplement levels accordingly.
You include the correct mineral ratios and fatty acids in each version.

Consistency in nutrient intake is safer and more effective than haphazard variety.

4. Adding Too Much Bone

Calcium is essential — but more isn’t better. Overfeeding bone can cause constipation, nutrient imbalances, and serious orthopedic issues in puppies.

Too Much Bone = Too Much Calcium

The 80:10:10 model assumes 10% bone, but:

Chicken necks and wings can be over 40% bone
Whole prey rabbits or game birds may exceed 25% bone
Feeding too many bony meals in a week pushes calcium far beyond the safe upper limit

Symptoms of Excess Bone:

Constipation or dry, crumbly stools
Straining to defecate
Lethargy and reduced appetite
Nutrient lockout (e.g., zinc, phosphorus, magnesium)
Joint and growth problems in puppies

Fix It:

Weigh bones, don’t guess
Calculate actual calcium content using reliable bone composition tables
Balance meals with boneless meats
Consider using another source of calcium daily (eggshell powder/bonemeal) and use bones as recreational treats
Keep calcium: phosphorus ratios within recommended ranges (1.1:1 to 1.3:1 for adults)

For puppies, get expert help — even minor errors in calcium can be life-altering. Do not feed a puppy an 80:10:10 mix

5. Feeding Puppies a Diet with the Wrong Fat Content

Fat is essential — but it’s also the most energy-dense macronutrient. In puppies, fat needs to be precisely managed.

Why Fat Matters in Puppies

Too little = poor energy supply, stunted growth
Too much = excessive calorie intake, growth that’s too rapid for skeletal development
The wrong omega-6:omega-3 ratio can increase the risk of joint issues

Large/giant breed puppies are especially vulnerable to joint disorders like hip dysplasia when given high-fat, unbalanced diets.

Common Puppy Feeding Mistakes:

Using high-fat cuts without balancing
Feeding adult-targeted raw diets to puppies
No adjustment for growth phase: 2–4 months vs 6–12 months
Feeding a mix with too much bone/calcium (puppies do not regulate calcium absorption until at least 6 months)

Fix It:

For small breeds: fat should be around 10–25% of dry matter ( a wider scope) but you will find 18-25% on most commercial foods
For large breeds: 15-18% of dry matter, with very careful calcium and phosphorus control of around 1.1:1 ranging to 1.4:1
Balance fatty acid ratios (aim for 5:1 to 10:1 omega-6:omega-3)
Use lean meats, and add omega-3s from fish oil or algae supplements where needed

And most importantly: puppy diets should always be formulated with growth requirements in mind.

Bonus Mistake: Feeding Based on % of Body Weight not on calorific density

Many raw feeding calculators suggest feeding dogs 2–3% of their body weight daily. But this method is flawed and doesn’t account for:

Breed differences
Age and life stage
Neutered vs entire status
Activity level or medical conditions
Whether the dog needs weight gain or loss

Why It’s Risky

Two dogs of the same weight may have dramatically different energy needs. Feeding based on weight alone leads to:

Underfeeding active or intact dogs
Overfeeding small-breed or neutered dogs
Poor growth rates in puppies
Nutritional deficiencies if underfeeding
No alignment with actual calorie requirements

Fix It:
Use Resting Energy Requirement (RER) or Maintenance Energy Requirement (MER) formulas.

Final Thoughts: Not being “processed” doesn’t mean it shouldn’t be balanced.

Raw feeding can be a suitable feeding method for healthy dogs and certain family dynamics — but only when it’s carefully planned. Simply following ratios, rotating proteins, and winging it with bones and some fruit and veg every now and again is not enough. The truth is: balance matters more than format.

If you’re feeding raw or thinking of transitioning your dog, make sure your recipes are nutritionally complete and based on science, not internet hearsay.

Need Help With Raw Feeding?

The Canine Dietitian offers raw diet consultations, recipe formulation, and one-to-one support to ensure your dog’s meals are complete, balanced, and suited to their needs. Visit www.thecaninedietitian.co.uk to get started. Want to check if your dog’s diet is meeting their needs? Complete the FREE DIET ASSESSMENT HERE

Want to DIY with confidence? Join The Canine Code — the UK’s first dog nutrition membership platform — where you’ll find:

Raw and cooked recipes balanced to FEDIAF/NRC/AAFCO guidelines
Ingredient breakdowns and supplement calculators
Video tutorials and expert Q&As

Learn more at www.thecaninecode.co.uk

References:

Axelsson E. et al. (2013). The genomic signature of dog domestication reveals adaptation to a starch-rich diet. Nature.
Moreira MA et al. (2023). Evaluation of Nutritional Adequacy in Raw Diets for Dogs. Veterinary Sciences.
European Pet Food Industry Federation (FEDIAF) Nutritional Guidelines (2020).

5 Dangerous Mistakes People Make When Raw Feeding Their Dog — And How to Fix Them